At a small cemetery in Mitte, the mausoleums are still pockmarked with bullet holes from World War II. All around are noisy streets and construction sites.
Rainer Altenkamp, a local ornithologist, has come to the cemetery to check on a pair of hawks. “By the way, we are hearing now a goshawk calling, sitting just in the tree 20 or 30 meters from us,” Altenkamp says. “And he’s calling his wife, maybe, or he has seen an intruder.”